Iceland: It’s Hot, Even When It’s Not!

 

I decided I wanted to see the country in her natural glory–I went to Iceland in Winter.

In recent years Iceland has become the ‘hot’ new vacation destination. I decided I wanted to see the country in her natural glory–I went to Iceland in Winter.

Taking a direct Icelandair flight from Toronto in February, I immediately met an interesting niche of travelers when I landed in Reykjavik…the layover tourist. Those who are on their way to or from the U.K. or Europe and are lured by a description of a mini vacation in and around Iceland’s ‘Golden Triangle’.

The Golden Triangle generally extends from Reykjavik and heads south-east, creating an approximate 300 kilometer loop. Bus tours are a popular option, hitting all the ‘hot spots’ such as the Blue Lagoon and Gullfoss waterfall.

Gullfoss waterfall
Gullfoss (“golden waterfall”). Located within the Golden Triangle

This wasn’t how I wanted to explore Iceland…the island was my destination, not a stopover. I intended to take the time to see more of it and meet more of the people who call it home.

Before leaving Canada I researched options to see Iceland. I learned the country is still not a popular destination in the winter months (with the exception of the aforementioned Golden Triangle). I also learned Iceland is the most sparsely populated country in Europe and two-thirds of the country’s inhabitants live in and around Reykjavik, leaving the remainder of the island pretty remote. Finally, I discovered there is one main road that encircles the island–Ring Road–which is kept open year round while many of the interior roads are not passable or even open in the Winter.

Armed with this information I decided to work with Nordic Visitor tour company, one of the many in Iceland, and considered the options of self-drive or guided group (small, large, or private). Self-driving appealed to my independent adventurous side!

A Ford Kuga, my rental for my road trip.
A 4-wheel drive Ford Kuga was my rental for my 10 day road trip.

With the self-drive option, Nordic Visitor mapped out my route and, based on preferences I provided to them, pre-arranged my accommodations for each stop. This is critical as many B&B’s, small hotels, etc are not open in Winter. They prepared a comprehensive but detailed package which was mailed to me. Along with it was a wealth of additional information ranging from sight-seeing suggestions, interesting local facts along my route, and tips on winter driving.

Arriving in Reykjavik, I had timed my vacation to give me a couple of days to explore the city, which I did on foot. It’s not that big. Geothermic heating is throughout the island, supplying almost all of the homes and, interestingly, keeping the roads and sidewalks of the city clear of ice!

Harpa Opera House in Reykjavik
The Harpa Opera House concert hall and convention centre in Reykjavik opened in 2011.
Stainless steel sculpture "Soltar" meaning "Sun Voyager" at the harbour
A stainless steel sculpture “Solfar” (“Sun Voyager”) at the harbour in Reykjavik.

I’m not a shopper nor a ‘foodie’ however I enjoyed seeing some of the unique architecture, fascinating sights and interesting street art in the city.

Picture of building street art in Reykjavik
Building street art in Reykjavik

Picture of building street art in Reykjavik

Picture of interesting architectural details in Reykjavik
Interesting architectural details in Reykjavik

I was happy in my modest–very clean and comfortable– hostel. Located down the street from the stunning Hallgrimskirkja Church, I learned the hostel is owned by Hreinn Hreinsson and his wife Olga. Hreinn was the illustrator for the very successful cookbook “Delicious Iceland” by Chef Snaer Volundarson.

Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church in Reykyavik
Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church. Located in Reykjavik, this stunning church built on a hill is visible from pretty much anywhere in the city. I was able to wander all day and had no trouble finding my way back to my guest house…just down the street from the church!

Statue of Leif Eriksson in front of Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church

View of the city from the Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church tower
Reykjavik – beautiful views of the city from the highest viewing levels of the Hallgrimskirkja Church. Visible here is Tjörnin, a small lake within the city which freezes and is a popular spot for skating (this picture was taken at just past sunrise–9:40am local time–on a weekday so I think that’s why there was no one skating at the time).

After exploring the city for a couple of days it was time to start my real adventure…traveling on the Ring Road around the island!

Winter driving through a white-out
The first of many white-outs I drove through. On the first morning of my road trip I drove through about an hour of a white-out. When it finally cleared enough, I pulled over to take this picture. Can you make out those poles along the side of the road? They are life-savers…literally. When driving in these conditions, the road is invisible–all you can see is the bright yellow paint on the poles and you steer your way by them.

Along with the amazing snow conditions was the extraordinary wind! At one point, up in the mountains, I had pulled over to take a picture of the view and was unable to open my door against the wind!

With the majority of the island’s population in and around Reykjavik, it wasn’t unusual for me to drive for an hour or two without seeing another vehicle or a house off in the distance.

I thoroughly enjoyed my accommodations arranged by Nordic Visitor. A small-town modest bungalow owned by a retired teacher with his King Charles spaniel named Zorro, a bustling family horse farm, a beautiful property with stunning views owned–appropriately, I thought–by Icelandic landscape photographer Haukur Snorrason, and more. All were welcoming, clean, served delicious home-prepared authentic meals and friendly conversation.

Since it was an adventure though, it wasn’t all driving and enjoying the guesthouses!

A group of people standing on Myrdalsjokull Glacier
Out on Myrdalsjokull Glacier. I wasn’t expecting it to be as scary as it was! The ice is so clear you can see down about 2 meters into it. And so blue! That was also a surprise.
Ice formations on a glacier
When you get out on the glacier you see that parts of it is as smooth as a sheet of glass.
People walking within ice formations.
The glacier is not flat–lots of rolls, valleys and hills.
Two men rappelling on ice
On Myrdalsjokull Glacier. Our guides also gave us rappelling lessons…also scary but fun!

I was in Iceland for Valentine’s Day…the perfect opportunity for a trip to the spa!

A person in a hot springs pool in Myvatn Nature Baths.
Here I am enjoying the Myvatn Nature Baths. Everything submerged is toasty warm. From the pool you run–wet and in your bathing suit–to one of the sauna cabins. After that you run–now hot and sweaty and still in your suit–to the main building to shower and dress. Feeling invigorated!

Oh, did I mention? I didn’t only travel by car!

Person on horseback
I went horseback riding out in the Skagafjordur countryside. It was a cold day! This picture was taken just as we started out and by the end of our ride (a couple of hours later), the ground was covered in snow. It often gets cleared by the wind between snowfalls. The Icelandic horses are smallish and wide and amazingly sure on their feet. Going through mud, across ice, through streams and over frozen fields without a misstep.

On another day I was about 40 meters underground in a lava cave expedition with a guide named…Thor, of course!

Although parts of the trip may not have been for the faint of heart, for me they make some of the best stories!

Tire tracks in snow
This picture is the road I was traveling on, encased in thick ice and covered in a couple of inches of snow. In it are my tire tracks…going sideways.
Vehicle being towed from a snowy ditch
Yes! I was blown right off the road! I was barely moving at the time and visibility was poor. One of the things provided with the vehicle was a local cell phone for emergencies. I only had to wait an hour before someone arrived to pull me back on the road. No damage!

But the scenery! Yes, I loved the adventures, the friendships, the new experiences. Even without all of that though…the scenery.

Skogafoss waterfall
Skogafoss (“Skoga River waterfall”) is one of the country’s largest, with about a 60 meter drop. Iceland could be re-named “Island of a Thousand Waterfalls”!
Kirkjufell mountain
Kirkjufell (“church mountain”). Along with its beautiful waterfalls, Iceland is also known for its majestic mountains. This one is on Snaefellsnes Peninsula.

As with any vacation, there’s always more than can be told–or seen–in one sitting. I loved my Winter vacation in Iceland and I hope you liked this small peek. If you are still intrigued, you can see more pictures from my visit. Enjoy!

– Marilyn